(A photographic journey through the heavenly valley of Jammu & Kashmir!!!)
Jan-2015: If you are an Indian, your Travel-list is gonna remain without the red cherry at the top until you put a tick mark on Kashmir valley. Time was high for us to fill that void and shift it from the wish-list to the accomplished one….to greet the brand new year 2015 in our own-way. Mission Kashmir by road from the capital city Delhi….Howzat sir???
Kashmir in extreme-winter!!! Could imagine some eyebrows going wider and some jaw-droppings too!! Oh Yes….there will be challenges ahead to face-off with….but then, where is the taste of success without the fear of failure….! With Destiny by your side you can tear the star from the sky and wear it at your forehead. Of course, you just can’t change what is written on the cards.
They say a bride look her best in bridal dress- Just could not agree more. Kashmir- A place to admire all seasons, however, looks beyond beauty in its milky white snowy-Lehenga during winters. Imaginations, hopes, dreams, curiosity together have the power to create some super unidirectional magnetic force and here, they resulted in me, an unquenchable desire to date with the dashing beauty in its most glamorous-outfit!
Of course, there is another option: Book a flight> Reach Srinagar> Acclimatize for 1-day>Book a taxi to visit major tourist locations> Return Flight. But as they say, you miss the ground reality when you fly over it.
Approx. 1000 kms drive one-side! You need some able partners for cheering up the mood throughout and set the ball rolling. Then, who will be the partners in this crime !!! We approached a few families, but some were reluctant, some were already planned and for some not possible…….So, after a few unsuccessful attempts…. no more search for the perfect strangers and decided to give a lonely shot this time.
The preparation:
We had already run through the internet few many times, going through various websites and blogs for gathering information on below:
Statistical predictions of the weather.
Route map information
(Photo courtesy: Google search)
Major places to cover (Patnitop, Srinagar, Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Pahalgam)
Getting my car ready for the journey
Actual Cost incurred: Fuel cost 10K, Accommodation 15 K INR for 6 nights.
Medication (First-aid, some knowledge about AMS and carried a mini-oxy cylinder)
During our preparation, as I mentioned, we did analyze the statistical predictions of the weather. But the old saying, statistics are just like mini-skirts; they reveal the most and give you fair ideas but hide the most important part. There was certainly a big gap between what were forecasted and what we actually experienced…..at least -5 degrees in the down-side in Srinagar, enough to make you a fish out of water. However, with our contingency plan, we were able to stem the rot and we were gradually coping pretty well with the conditions….how it was done?….reveal you shortly.
Day-1
4-00 AM….It was ghostly dark outside, even if a thief slaps you, you won’t be able to locate where it came from. We were already packed up since last night, so just had to get out of the bed and hit the road. This little compromise to start early would help us to avoid traffic while crossing Delhi. Just had a cup of black tea with light snacks to break the dizziness and then twisted the ignition key. Our little pocket dynamite (4.5 years old son-Jagrav) was ready to explode…..as if his favorite character from the movie Toy Story hero- Woody says to his horse, “Run like the wind…. Bulls-eye”.
Target of the day was to reach Jammu before sunset. As usual, it was the typical North-Indian dense foggy winter morning, probably 10~20 meters of visibility. The need of the hour was to drive defensively, drive safely. 3.5 hrs of drive, surprisingly after Ambala, it was clear.
Approx 4 Hrs of driving, time for a little break. We had a halt for break-fast somewhere after entering Punjab. Cool weather with hot stuffed Paratha with warm-tea and omlet. Between the Alu-paratha till lunch, our target was to cover a distance of 200 odd kms. However, with clear weather and excellent road-way we managed to reach Jammu by 3-00 PM (which we expected to reach by 5-00 PM). We took lunch and revised our target to reach at Patnitop. And our 4-wheels keep on turning for another 3 hours to finally reach Patnitop at 6-30 PM. Stayed the night at a reasonable good hotel with warming facilities. After approx. 14 hours of drive (720 km)….very quickly surrendered to the night after dinner. So next day we have to cover only 180 kms to reach Srinagar, but most of the part will be at the hills.
Day-2
Good morning Patnitop!! We all had sound sleep till 8-00 AM. My wify and kid had light snacks while I extended my dreaming for another half an hour. By 9-00 AM we left the shelter. My morning break-fast was the song “Nothing else matters” by Metallica which warmed me up by few degrees.
After half an hour drive, we located a roadside tea stall and decided for a halt. It reminded me of our college days, where we used to have our morning-tea during break, at an Old man’s tea stall in front of the college main gate. I tried to emulate the same feeling by pouring the tea into the plate and then sipping in…..super pleasure!!! Felt like going back by 15 years…..Sweet 20 revisited.
Continuous driving on the hilly winding road….no inhabitation….occasional trucks crossing us….all alone….really was a tough testing time. My delicate-wall separating enjoyment and irritation was melting to thinner & thinner. Finally some respite came when John Bonjovi fittingly started in my stereo with his masculine baritone, “Nothing good come easy….every good thing takes some time”….one of my favorite number “Dry Country”. I just could not help but stepped up the volume by few decibels. There is always a divine power in music. It recharged me with the much needed high…..as R.Shambora screamed in with the high-voltage fast guitar-lead.
Two more hours of drive from Patnitop, we reached Jawahar tunnel (a 3.5 km long tunnel). We crossed the tunnel to reached the little famous “Titanic view point”. Suddenly the mountains made way to the valley below. As we had our first glimpse of the Himalayan valley from the “Titanic view point”, a shivering run-through my spine!!!….. Rising from the dust….a hail to the king of the mountains!!! The mighty Himalaya and the heavenly valley Kashmir started.
And then, our kiddo wished to get lighter. It was time to have a short juicy break. As they sipped in some pulpy fluid, I took the chance to burn the stick of slow death. We had the delicious maggy too at the cool breezy Titanic point.
As the landscape gradually started to change its color and contour….felt like the snaky highway wanted to say…follow me down to the valley below….
Reached Srinagar by 3-00 PM and just roamed around the Dal lake on the Boulevard road to find a suitable hotel. Finally, zeroed on a beautiful Hotel named “The Nehrus”. Tried hard with our negotiation skills and deal finalized for an executive-suit for INR 2600/night (felt good to run away with such a deal as this time of the year very less travel-traffic is around in Srinagar). A very rare win-win situation for both the parties.
After one hour of rest, we had the first trial Shikara side for ½ an hour in the beautiful Dal lake which spreads around 27 kms (INR 200 for ½ an hour). We had a short walk around the lake in the evening then back to the den and ordered for the dinner.
The mercury showed -6 degree. Needless to say, you ought to take support from the bacteria-fermented fluid to keep up the heat-on in those bone-chilling conditions. Of course, it also does help to get closer to your hopes & dreams…..We did warmed ourselves up with a few pegs of the Old Monk with Luke-warm water….before hitting the bedtime.
Day-3
There is a divine music in the drawn in early morning at Dal lake. We experienced the frozen Dal.
Target of the day was to explore Srinagar.
This wonderland’s allure lays in its beauty, culture, food and history. Let’s check it out. During our evening walk in the prior evening we met a Shikara boat rider and his warm hospitality and politeness impressed us. After a few casual talks, we decided to take him as our guide.
Apart from major places like a few Mughal gardens (Nishant Bagh, Shalimerbagh, Chashm-e-shahi etc), Hazratbal, the most interesting was when he invited us to his village located at an island in the Dal lake. It was certainly a bonus. Just unable to explain the experience….however, a picture can convey better than words…just check it out….
He then also took us to a restaurant named Shamyana for lunch where we tasted delicious Kashmere cuisine.
During the evening Shikara ride- The jaw-dropping views made us spell-bound for a while. A photographer enjoys and views by his lens just like a soldier lives and dies by the sword. The honey dipped sunset was just mesmerizing ….but the photographer in me said to me…. shutter speed 1/200 @ F 8.0.
It was end of day-3 already.
Day-4
Target of the day was Gulmarg. It is just 56 kms from Srinagar, hence decided to make a day trip. We reached Gulmarg at around 10-30 AM.
Oh’dear! I am running out of superlatives to describe you the unparallel majestic divine beauty. If the snow blanket around is not sufficient to push your adrenaline to flow out then, the frozen water streams and white painted sky kissing pines by its side could be more than enough to put the switch on though.
I love to let the flow of thoughts and emotions to take over the rest and drive the lead while I convert our experiences and encounters into ink….just to give you a first-hand kick-up.
Anyway, snow and snow all around…. Wooohooo! We can’t wait any longer….
We decided to try out some skating and sledging. We were very enthusiastic…..tried and failed several times and same with others around. It looked little embarrassing though. However, significant improvement after few more tries; Impressive!!!….and then we left it to the professionals to explore further.
After the whole days of fun, we returned back to Srinagar.
Day-5
We checked out from the hotel at 9-30 AM to date with another hilly beauty- Pahalgam (Approx. 95 kms from Srinagar). On the way, we noticed a chain of cricket bat factories. We curiously went inside in one of them.
Opportunity comes with an unseen lady called Luck. My wify spotted a lady. We were little hesitant in the unfamiliar terrain & people…but warm welcome broke the ice and we had a nice session with the willow shapers. We ended up buying one of the finest straight-grained bat for INR 1200. (Would cost around INR 15~20K in retail market).
Reached Pahalgam around 12-30 PM. Checked in a reasonable good hotel with warming facilities. After having lunch, we went exploring the town and also went to famous points like Betaab valley and Chandanbari (starting point for Amarnath yatra).
Day-6
Time and river waits for none. We are on the day 6 already. Time to bid adieu Kashmir valley. Target of the day was to reach early at Patnitop and explore. We checked out at 8-30 AM. After a drive of 5 hrs, via Anantnag we reached Patnitop at 2-00 PM. Checked in hotel and then explored the little hill top.
Day-7
Back to where we started. We began at 8-30 Am and reached Delhi at 11-30 PM.
So……Kashmir…..A heaven on earth….yet dented by terrorism and recent natural disaster. With our first hand experience we can say that they see tourist as their cultivation as whole system dependent on tourism. These warm-hearted bunches of people have clawed back to their life against all odds and need our love. You just can’t question their honesty (although may be a few bad elements has given a bad name).
Also on a different note-Kashmir is the land with most political turmoil with each inch of land dearer for both the countries. Peace on Sale, but who is buying? Some people believe that justice lie in the barrel of an AK47….This is nonsense! Utter nonsense….strange illusion, isn’t it?
The Final inside-out
If really a seventh heaven or a cloud nine exist we don’t know…..but if they do….we are pretty sure, we were not far away from them being here in this heavenly valley. Now, we could safely say….we lived yet another dream once we dreamt together while our little emotional bubble bursted.
As we drove through the heavenly valley of Jammu & Kashmir, through the lush green meadows with sky kissing pines, ice creamed mountains, aquamarine-sky, winding rivers, white snow blankets, deserted mountains and honey dipped sunsets, apart from my wife & our son Jagrav (& also our maid) another two companions made this expedition more memorable.…Thank you my trusted Honda for being our chariot and thank you my Nikon for holding those memories.
Like the Holy Geeta says, “everything that has a beginning has an end”. Finally by the grace of Almighty, we are back at home safe and sound. A few more days required to soak in what we experienced in last 7 days. And then as I am jotting down our enjoyments & encounters in black & white, but somewhere deep down I know, conversion of feelings into ink has its own limitations.
You just can’t have it all!!! Due to various factors and circumstances we missed several things….A visit to Sonamarg, a ride in the gondola at Gulmarg, the floating vegetable market or may be something more….But we understand-“You just can’t have it all”! ….May be…Destiny might have made us miss the gold to reward the platinum someday.
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